The Ruins of the Reich - Travels in Germany Past and Present - Michael Geoghegan
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A silent midnight over the Danube,
and this vast Bavarian pantheon towering over me like an arcane,
mystical force. I walked through the snow, keeping outside the ring
of floodlights which threw giant shadows from the goddesses. The
circle of petrified Valkyries symbolised das großdeutsche Reich,
that empire of the soul which has bewitched every Germanic despot
from Barbarossa to Hitler. So begins a journey into the German
Reich, through the eighteen territories memorialised in the Hall of
Liberation - from Prussia and Hanover to Bavaria and Austria. And
this is a tale not just of buildings, but of people too, whether
Swabians or Bohemians, poets or musicians, kings or margravines,
National Socialists or Teutonic Knights, the Holy Alliance or the
Wehrmacht. Via cathedrals and castles, ferries and pleasure
cruisers, statues and spas, concentration camps and mausoleums,
Geoghegan winds his way up and down the hills and rivers of a
modern yet nostalgic landscape. Whether it's festivals and falconry
or football and fascist marches, Bruckner, Mahler or Janacek,
"Goring Hill" or the "Wolf's Lair", a Strength Through Joy holiday
camp or bohemian Berlin, this is a compelling and vivid exploration
of German identity through the traces of the past in the
present.
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